What you need to know about the types of colorants in cosmetics

Essential colors for makeup

Japanese people started wearing makeup during the Jomon period. It is said that they first started painting their eyes, mouths, etc. red. Later, during the Asuka period, face powder and lipstick were introduced from mainland China, and makeup began in earnest.

It's surprising to learn that Japanese people have been wearing makeup for such a long time.

It is also interesting to note that the history of makeup began with colors such as red and crimson. The secret to good makeup is to use colors well, and this has remained the same from the past to the present.

By the way, what kind of coloring agents are used in modern cosmetics?
In this article, we will explain the types of colorants used in cosmetics.

Related article: Should you avoid carmine in eyeshadow and lipstick?

Two types of colorants: pigments and dyes

There are two main types of colorants in cosmetics: pigments and dyes.

Makeup products come in a variety of textures and finishes, such as matte finishes and glossy finishes. They also vary in how well they match your skin and how well they last.

These factors are determined by whether the coloring agent is a pigment or a dye, so knowing the difference between these two will be helpful when choosing makeup.

Pigments

Pigments are one of the colorants used in cosmetics.

Coloring agents made by crushing natural or synthetic ingredients into small particles.
Because it is difficult to dissolve in water or oil, it remains mixed in cosmetics without dissolving. When applied to the skin, the fine particles disperse, making it appear colored.

It does not dissolve in other substances, so the color is highly stable. It also has a low transparency and a matte finish. It is often used in products such as eye shadows, blushes, foundations, and lipsticks.

It also doesn't fade or transfer easily, so you won't find yourself in a situation where your eyeshadow turns brown before you've finished it.

It also poses a lower risk of allergies than the dyes described below.

Although pigments seem to have only good points, they also have some drawbacks. They don't adhere well to the skin, so they can come off easily.

dye

Another type of colorant used in cosmetics is dyes, which are soluble colorants that dissolve in other ingredients.

By dissolving in other ingredients, it is easier to disperse evenly than pigments. It also adheres firmly to the skin, so the color lasts longer.

However, some products, like tint lip products, dye the skin. Unlike pigments, whose coloring ingredients stay on the surface of the skin, dyes color by penetrating the skin's surface.

Therefore, Dyes are also prone to pigmentation when used in eye makeup. There is a higher risk of irritation and allergies than with pigments.

Types of pigments used in cosmetic colourings

There are several types of pigments mentioned above as colorants for cosmetics. They can be broadly categorized into organic pigments, inorganic pigments, and pearl pigments.

Organic Pigments

A colorant whose main component is carbon. It can be used to create a wide range of vibrant colors, including red, orange, yellow, blue, green, and purple. It is often used in point makeup such as lipstick, eye shadow, and blush.

"Carbon black," which is often seen in eyeliner, is an organic pigment.

Inorganic Pigments

A pigment derived from a metal compound.
Commonly seen ingredients include iron oxide , titanium oxide , and chromium oxide. Oxidizing metals not only creates a matte, opaque color, but also stabilizes the metal.
It is often used in foundations, concealers and powders to correct skin tone, brighten the complexion and provide coverage.

There is another type of inorganic pigment called inorganic manganese salts.
It is made by chemically processing minerals. Ultramarine, manganese violet, Prussian blue, etc. are inorganic manganese salt colorants. A wide range of vivid colors can be created, including blue, green, purple, and bronze.
It can produce subtle nuances of color, making it particularly useful as eyeshadow or highlighter.

Pearlescent pigment

Pearlescent pigments come in both synthetic and natural varieties and are made up of a substance called mica coated with oxidized metal.

It is often used in highlighters, eye shadows and nail polishes because it imparts a soft sheen, sparkle and colour variation.

What is the "tar dye" that we often hear about?

Coal-tar dyes are organic synthetic dyes. They are also called "tar-based colorants."
They are written as "color + number", such as Red 102 or Yellow 205.

What's confusing is that this includes both pigments and dyes. For example, even among red tar dyes, "Red 204" and "Red 221" are pigments, while "Red 102" and "Red 223" are dyes.

83 types of tar-based colorants used in cosmetics

In Japan , 83 types of tar dyes are permitted for use in cosmetics .

However, due to concerns about skin irritation and the risk of allergies, there are some tar dyes that should not be used in eyeliner and lipstick, which are used very close to mucous membranes.

For example, "Black 401" and "Red 401" are OK to use in mascara and blush, but not in eyeliner or lipstick. Incidentally, mascara is also quite close to mucous membranes, but it seems to be exempt from the ban.

If you find that your eyes tend to become red or swollen when using eye makeup, you may want to check that your product does not contain the following coloring agents.
All of these are tar-based dyes that are prohibited for use on mucous membranes. In other words, they are synthetic colorants that the government recognizes as having a slightly higher risk of irritation and allergies.

• Red 401
• Red 404
• Red 405
• Red 501
• Red 502
• Red 503
• Red 504
• Red 505
• Red 506
• Orange 401
• Orange 402
• Orange 403
• Yellow 401
• Yellow 402
• Yellow 403
• Yellow 404
• Yellow 405
• Yellow 406
• Yellow 407
• Green 401
• Green 402
• Blue 403
• Blue 404
• Purple 401
• Black 401