Anti-aging ingredient retinol
Are you familiar with the cosmetic ingredient called retinol?
It is a very popular beauty ingredient that is said to be effective in anti-aging. If you are interested in beauty, you may have seen it somewhere.
Retinol is a type of vitamin A that promotes skin turnover.
It is also attracting attention as an ingredient that is effective against blemishes, wrinkles , pimples , and acne scars.
Precautions when using retinol
Some people say that using cosmetics containing retinol makes their skin red or tingly. If the concentration of retinol in the product is high, such skin problems can occur. People with sensitive skin may also experience peeling after application.
This side effect is called a retinoid reaction (A reaction). Many people may already know about it.
Retinol is highly irritating and can make your skin sensitive after application, so you should be careful not to expose it to UV rays. Some products also recommend using it only at night.
For these reasons, people with sensitive skin may avoid retinol, and even those who use cosmetics containing retinol may be careful to avoid UV rays after applying them.
But did you know that retinol also comes with some even more frightening risks?
The real risks of retinol
There is a study on retinol palmitate conducted by the US government in 2012. Retinol palmitate is a form of vitamin A. It is also called a retinol derivative.
The study suggests that applying retinol palmitate to sun-exposed skin may hasten the development of skin tumors .
Vitamin A is an antioxidant that is said to reduce the risk of skin cancer when taken as a supplement.
However, when applied to the skin and exposed to ultraviolet light, it has the opposite effect, potentially accelerating the growth of cancer tumors, because Vitamin A applied to the skin promotes excessive skin growth.
In particular, retinyl palmitate may also form small molecules (free radicals) that damage DNA when exposed to UV light.
These reports are based on experiments using mice, and some organizations say that the risks cannot be determined conclusively because the skin sensitivity of mice and humans is different.
Additionally, some manufacturers and researchers claim that it is safe.
It's true that at present there isn't much conclusive evidence about the dangers of retinol.
However, can we say with certainty that it is safe because mice and humans are different?
Retinol in the US
The U.S. National Toxicology Program (NTP) and FDA have been researching the photocarcinogenicity of vitamin A derivatives for over 10 years.
NTP is an organization that investigates the toxicity of pesticides and additives, such as their carcinogenicity. FDA is the US Food and Drug Administration, a public agency equivalent to Japan's Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare.
Studies by both institutions have also shown the potential to speed up the formation of tumors in mouse skin.
Also, what is the EWG's safety rating for retinol?
The rating ranges from 1 to 9 and varies greatly depending on the conditions of use. For example, it states that there is a high risk of inhalation in the case of cosmetics such as spray types.
Retinol in Europe
Germany and Norway have warned that it may cause vitamin A toxicity, and that using cosmetics containing retinol could lead to an overdose of vitamin A, since people already get more than enough vitamin A from their diet.
There are several types of retinol:
- Retinol
- Retinol Palmitate
- Retinol Acetate
- Retinol Linoleate
These are all types of vitamin A. Taking too much of them can cause the following health problems (vitamin A toxicity):
- Liver problems
- Nutritional deficiencies in nails and hair (e.g. hair loss)
- osteoporosis
- Hip fracture
Because of these risks, Germany has called for restrictions on the concentration of retinol in cosmetics for use on the face and hands, and for it to be banned in cosmetics for the lips and body.
Additionally, the use of retinol in body care products has been restricted across Europe since 2016. By restricting use of retinol in body care products, which are applied to a wide area, care is taken to ensure that the amount of vitamin A absorbed through the skin remains within a safe range.
Avoid retinol while pregnant or breastfeeding
Too much vitamin A can cause serious skeletal birth defects in a baby, so it's best to avoid using cosmetics containing retinol during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
In Norway, health authorities are advising pregnant and breastfeeding women to avoid cosmetics containing vitamin A.
In Japan?
Unfortunately, there are no regulations on the use of retinol in skincare products in Japan. In fact, compared to Europe and the United States, there is hardly any discussion about its risks.
It's a hot topic ingredient, but I want to be aware of the risks that lurk within it before using it.
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