Cosmetic ingredients: Effects and risks of using polyquaterniums

What is Polyquaternium?

Polyquaterniums are very commonly used cosmetic ingredients. There are currently at least 37 types of polyquaterniums.

In the full ingredient list, the word "Polyquaternium" is followed by a number, such as "Polyquaternium-5" or "Polyquaternium-47." The raw material varies depending on the number. For example, some, such as Polyquaternium-10, are made from natural cellulose. However, most other polyquaterniums are synthetic polymers.

Many types of polyquaterniums are used in many cosmetics, but are they safe to use on skin and hair? Many people may be concerned about this. In this article, we have summarized the reasons why polyquaterniums are used and the possible dangers that may be of concern.

Products that use Polyquaternium

Polyquaternium is a cationic surfactant. Generally, among the many surfactants available, cationic surfactants are considered to be more irritating to the skin.

Because of its excellent anti-static and softening properties, it is often used in hair care products such as hair conditioners and treatments. It is also used in facial cleansers, body soaps, hair color products, skin care products, etc.

Why are polyquaterniums used in hair care products?

Although the characteristics of each of the 37 types of polyquaterniums are slightly different, the following effects are expected from polyquaterniums incorporated into hair care products:

Conditioning Effects

Polyquaternium forms a film on the surface of the hair, which smooths the cuticle and reduces frizz, leaving hair soft, smooth and easy to manage.

Prevents hair breakage

The cationic properties of Polyquaternium reduce friction and improve hair manageability, making wet hair easier to run your fingers through and preventing breakage.

Keep your style

Using Polyquaternium in styling products like mousses, gels and sprays helps maintain shape, volume and hold, helping your style last longer.

Protects against heat damage

Polyquaternium also has a protective effect against heat. By forming a barrier on the hair, it protects the hair from heat damage caused by hair dryers and hair irons.

Improves foaming

By adding polyquaternium, you can create fine bubbles. This effect is expected to be used in shampoos and facial cleansers.

The role of polyquaterniums in skin care products

Due to the following effects, it can be used not only in hair care products but also in skin care products. Polyquaternium is included.

Moisturizing effect

Polyquaternium attracts moisture and hydrates the skin, which increases the skin's ability to retain moisture and keep it supple. It also reduces the appearance of dryness and fine lines .

Skin conditioning effect

Polyquaterniums' film-forming properties are also useful in skin care, forming a barrier on the skin's surface, minimizing moisture loss and protecting it from external aggressors.

Safety of Polyquaternium

Generally, polyquaterniums are considered safe for human skin and health.

On the other hand, it has also been pointed out that acrylamide may remain.
In fact, acrylamide is a carcinogen that is absorbed through the skin and is also found in tobacco, and its connection to neurotoxicity has been suggested.

The EU has restricted the amount of acrylamide remaining in cosmetic ingredients due to its high risk to the human body, but there are no specific restrictions in Japan.

What if acrylamide remains in the polyquaternium used in cosmetics?
Even things that are generally considered safe may have unseen risks.

Impact on the environment and aquatic life

Polyquaternium seems to pose invisible risks to the human body. What about its effects on other living things?

Polyquaterniums are generally considered to be poorly biodegradable. In other words, there is a high possibility that they will not return to nature after being discharged from used shampoos, etc. Therefore, there are concerns about the impact of their accumulation in the natural environment.

In addition, cationic surfactants containing polyquaterniums are said to be highly toxic to aquatic organisms such as fish. In particular , polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-16, Polyquaterniums with high charge density are known to be highly toxic to algae and other organisms .

Polyquaterniums, which are particularly well-known for their attractive hair benefits, are used in many hair care products, but it turns out they may actually have a negative impact on health and the environment.

It's important to know these facts correctly and consider the pros and cons before choosing the cosmetics you use.