Is Polysorbate 20 Safe? Why it's Used in Cosmetics and the Risks

What is Polysorbate?

The raw material for polysorbate is a sugar alcohol called sorbitol, which is naturally found in fruits and is essentially a harmless substance to the human body and the environment.

However, the polysorbates used in cosmetics are made by processing sorbitol in the following way:

First, sorbitol is dehydrated. Sorbitan is produced. Ethylene oxide is added to the sorbitan to cause a chemical reaction. This process is called "ethoxylation." Polysorbate 20 is produced by this process, which uses 20 units of ethylene oxide.

The number following the polysorbate varies depending on the processing method.

Three reasons why polysorbate 20 is used in cosmetics

The purpose of adding polysorbate 20 to cosmetics is to improve the texture, feel, and scent. In other words, it is an ingredient that acts as a surfactant, emulsifier, and fragrance.

1. As a cleaning ingredient

A surfactant used as a cleansing ingredient in skin care products. It defats and emulsifies oils and fats, and lifts and washes away dirt. Polysorbate 20 is also used as a surfactant in face washes, cleansers, and body soaps. It is expected to attract and wash away oil and dirt that has accumulated on the skin and in pores.

2. As an emulsifier

Polysorbate 20 also acts as an emulsifier.
Most cosmetics contain both water and oil. However, water and oil do not actually mix, which is why commercial dressings tend to separate.

However, in cosmetics, the two stay mixed together without separating. This is the effect of emulsifiers. By adding emulsifiers, water and oil can be mixed together and maintained in a stable state.

Polysorbate 20 is a synthetic emulsifier used in many cosmetic products, including:

• Lotion and milky lotion
• Face cream
• Serum
• Sheet Masks and Packs
• Makeup base
• Foundation
• Face Powder
• Cheeks and eyeshadow
• lipstick

3. To add fragrance

Polysorbate 20 can also be used as a flavoring ingredient. As I wrote at the beginning, the raw material for polysorbate is sorbitol, which is naturally found in fruits such as apples, pears, peaches, and prunes. The sweet aroma of these fruits is utilized.

Safety of Polysorbate 20

All polysorbates, including polysorbate 20, are generally rated as safe, with the following caveats:

Risk of use with ingredients absorbed through the skin

In the evaluation, it was shown that polysorbate 20, polysorbate 65, and polysorbate 80 may promote the absorption of other ingredients. Therefore, the following precautions are required when formulating cosmetics containing these ingredients:

• Use in combination with ingredients for which safety data shows they are not absorbed through the skin.
• When combining ingredients that may be absorbed through the skin, be careful with the formulation.
• Be especially careful with cosmetics that may be used on infants and young children .

Impurities

It has also been pointed out that polysorbates may contain or remain impurities. The impurities are 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide. As mentioned above, ethylene oxide is a substance used in the manufacturing process.

The safety assessment highlighted the need to continue to implement necessary controls to limit the contamination of polysorbates with these impurities before they are incorporated into cosmetic products.

Possible pesticide residues

Because the ingredients are natural fruits, there are concerns about pesticide residues in the coconuts and fruits used, as well as heavy metals.
Therefore, manufacturing plants should continue to comply with Good Manufacturing Practices and address these residual impurities.

Toxic substances that may remain in polysorbates

Polysorbate is generally considered safe. However, as mentioned above, there is a possibility of impurities being mixed in or remaining in the food. Some people avoid polysorbate because of concerns about the following risks associated with impurities:

Ethylene oxide

As mentioned above, ethylene oxide is used in the ethoxylation process to make polysorbate. This ethylene oxide is a substance that is known to be carcinogenic, as well as toxic to the nervous system and skin. There is a possibility that it may remain in the final polysorbate.

1,4-Dioxane

Ethoxylation by the addition of ethylene oxide can produce 1,4-dioxane , a suspected carcinogen, and is known to easily penetrate the skin.

To remove 1,4-dioxane, polysorbates must be purified before they can be used in cosmetics. In the United States, the amount of 1,4-dioxane remaining in cosmetics is restricted to a maximum of 10 ppm. However, in Japan, no specific restrictions have been established yet.

Because it's something you use every day

Even though polysorbates do pose the risks listed above, you may not need to worry too much if you only use them occasionally.

However, most people probably don't just use one type of cosmetic product. Many people probably use more than 10 types of cosmetics several times a day, almost every day.

If multiple products contain polysorbates, you may be coming into contact with harmful substances more frequently and in greater quantities than you think.

Since you use it every day, it might be a good idea to check the ingredients in the cosmetics you use.