Is glycolic acid good for your skin?

Ingredients for exfoliation

Glycolic acid is a substance that dissolves old keratin and oil, meaning it has the ability to chemically peel off human skin.

Moreover, there is no need to rub or irritate the skin like with a scrub. It is said that simply applying it can remove the dead skin cells that have accumulated on the surface of the skin.

It has many benefits, including improving acne, blemishes, skin tone, and roughness.

On the other hand, using too much can have the opposite effect and can even cause rough skin and other skin problems.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the properties of glycolic acid, its benefits to the skin, and precautions to take.

What is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is a natural compound found in fruits and sugar cane, but most of the formula used in cosmetics is synthetic .

It is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid that is added to cosmetics in the hope of providing a peeling effect, and like other alpha-hydroxy acids, it is also called AHA or fruit acid.

Other types of AHAs include:

• Citric acid: Found in citrus fruits
• Malic acid : found in apples
• Lactic acid : found in milk

Of these AHAs, glycolic acid has the smallest molecular structure and is therefore believed to be able to penetrate deeper into the skin.

The Function of Glycolic Acid

By incorporating glycolic acid into cosmetics, the following effects are mainly expected:

Exfoliation

As mentioned at the beginning, glycolic acid removes the outer layer of skin cells and oils, so you can get the exfoliating effect just by applying it, no scrubbing or rubbing required.

Moisturizing

Glycolic acid is believed to have the potential to increase molecules called glycosaminoglycans, which attract moisture to the skin and are therefore expected to have a moisturizing effect.

Anti-aging

Studies have shown it may increase collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin, aid in skin repair and regeneration, and support skin elasticity.
It may be effective for skin that is prone to wrinkles and sagging.

Is glycolic acid effective against acne?

The study involved 80 women with acne. There is a study from 1999 .

Subjects were given a peel containing 70% glycolic acid, which reportedly improved all types of acne.
It seems to be particularly effective against acne caused by clogged pores due to sebum and dead skin cells.

However, 70% is a fairly high concentration.
It is not found in such high concentrations in commercially available cosmetics. It is treated by chemical peels administered by dermatologists.

Addresses UV damage

Human skin can be damaged when exposed to ultraviolet rays. It is also well known that this can lead to the development of blemishes and wrinkles.

A 2020 study showed that glycolic acid is effective against sun-induced skin damage, while a 2018 paper suggested that it may have a protective effect against UVB rays and prevent aging caused by UV rays.

The risks of glycolic acid

According to the American EWG, which evaluates the safety of cosmetic ingredients, glycolic acid poses a moderate risk .

The reason for this is that it is highly irritating to the skin and many countries impose restrictions on its use.
It is true that AHAs, including glycolic acid, share common risks, including:

UV damage

I mentioned earlier that glycolic acid prevents damage caused by UV rays. However, it may seem contradictory, but right after using glycolic acid, your skin is more susceptible to damage.

That's because glycolic acid abrades the surface of your skin, leaving the exposed layers underneath more vulnerable to UV rays.

This means that it may cause blemishes and inflammation.

Therefore, while using glycolic acid and for about a week after you stop using it, be sure to take proper measures against UV rays and apply sunscreen every day.

Your skin may also become dry, so be sure to moisturize properly.

Skin irritation

People with sensitive, dry, or thin skin may be particularly susceptible to irritation from glycolic acid.

• Redness or inflammation
• itch
• swelling
• Hot flashes

These symptoms are signs that you are feeling irritated.
Symptoms such as skin burning or itching are not a positive reaction. It is recommended that you stop using the product immediately or reduce the frequency of use.