Is it okay to continue using the whitening ingredient hydroquinone?

What is Hydroquinone?

Hydroquinone is often used in cosmetics as a skin-lightening ingredient.

In Japan, it is allowed to be used in commercially available cosmetics at up to 2%. However, in Europe (EU), its use in cosmetics is prohibited. Also, the United States, which allowed its use in cosmetics up to 2% like Japan, banned its use in commercially available products in 2020.

In this article, we will explain the reasons and characteristics of hydroquinone.

Banned in Asian countries

Hydroquinone is banned in many European and American countries from being used in cosmetics. The situation is the same in Asia. The ASEAN Cosmetic Council , which includes Asian countries such as Japan, South Korea, the Philippines, Malaysia, and Thailand, also prohibits the use of hydroquinone in cosmetics.

Even in countries where it is banned, its use is permitted for the treatment of melasma and other conditions when prescribed by a doctor, but each country prohibits its use in commercially available cosmetics.

Even though Japan is a member of the ASEAN Cosmetic Council, the country only allows hydroquinone to be used in over-the-counter cosmetics up to 2%. Therefore, whitening cosmetics containing hydroquinone are still available on the market and can be purchased by anyone.

Hydroquinone causes skin to become pale

Hydroquinone reduces the production of melanin in the skin and increases the breakdown of melanin, resulting in a skin whitening effect.

This may sound appealing to those who want to eliminate blemishes and achieve white, clear skin.

However, if the concentration is high or if it is used for a long period of time, it may cause vitiligo, a patchy discoloration of the skin. It is said that the risk increases when the concentration is high, such as 5% or more.

As mentioned at the beginning, the maximum concentration that can be used in commercially available cosmetics is 2%. Therefore, there may be no need to worry too much. However, there is a possibility that unexpected symptoms may occur when used in combination with other whitening ingredients.

In addition, because hydroquinone excessively suppresses the production of melanin pigment, the skin after application is highly susceptible to the effects of ultraviolet rays. It has been pointed out that the skin may be exposed to serious damage from UVA and UVB rays, increasing the risk of skin cancer.

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Hydroquinone can cause dark spots

Hydroquinone is used in skin care products in hopes of whitening the skin, but it may actually cause dark spots.

When whitening ingredients such as hydroquinone are applied, the area becomes bluish-black and pigmented. It is a skin condition called ochronosis .

There have been reports of women around the world who have developed pigmentation on their faces after using creams containing hydroquinone. If you develop ochronosis and develop pigmentation, your skin may never regain its original color.

I'm using it to try to lighten my blemishes, but it's having the opposite effect.

Possible contamination with tocopherol acetate

In Europe and the United States in particular, it is recommended to avoid cosmetics containing hydroquinone, except in cases of medical treatment prescribed by a doctor. It is easy to avoid hydroquinone if it is listed on the ingredient list, but it may actually be mixed in as an impurity with other ingredients.

The ingredient is tocopherol acetate.

It is a synthetic vitamin E that is used in many cosmetics as an antioxidant. If tocopherol acetate is included, you may want to check with the manufacturer about its purity.

Other Risks of Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone can cause serious skin problems. Its strong effects can cause skin irritation and allergies .
If you experience any rashes, swelling, or redness, discontinue use immediately. Skin inflammation may also be the cause of the pigmentation called ochronosis mentioned above.