Cosmetics containing toxic PFAS

PFAS Found in Makeup Products

In 2021, the fact that cosmetics contain chemicals called PFAS was widely reported in Europe and the United States. This was triggered by a survey conducted jointly by several universities.

A study by researchers from the University of Notre Dame, University of Toronto, Indiana University, and ETH Zurich found that 52% of 231 types of cosmetics purchased in North America may contain PFAS.

Particularly high concentrations were detected in the following categories:

• Waterproof mascara
• Liquid type lipstick
• Foundation

Further analysis confirmed that the products contained at least four PFASs that are of concern for their effects on the human body, and most of the products that contained PFASs did not list them on their full ingredient lists .

What are PFAS?

PFAS is a general term for over 4,730 types of organic fluorine compounds. They are also called "eternal chemicals" because they are very difficult to decompose in nature. When released into the natural environment, they accumulate in water and other bodies, and their toxicity to the human body has also been pointed out.

Of the many PFAS, "PFOS" and "PFOA" are heat-resistant and have the property of repelling water and oil. Because of this property, they have been used in coatings for frying pans and food wrapping paper. Of course, they are also used in a huge number of different products other than frying pans and food.

However, due to the various dangers of PFAS, international treaties are calling for their elimination and restriction of their use.

In Japan, the manufacture and import of only "PFOS" and "PFOA" is prohibited in principle. However, as mentioned above, these substances are extremely difficult to decompose in nature. Therefore, high concentrations of PFAS have been detected in rivers and groundwater in various regions of the country in recent years.

PFAS used in cosmetics

According to the Cosmetic and Toxicology Industry Organisation (CTPA) , of the estimated 4,730 types of PFAS, nine may be used in cosmetics.

Why are PFAS used in cosmetics?

It's most often used to make products smoother and easier to apply. For example, you might find it in:

• Toner
• cleansing
• Manicure
• Foundation
• lipstick
• Eyeliner
• Eyeshadow
• mascara

In addition to improving the feel of the product, it also increases water resistance. It is also used in hair treatments to add shine and prevent frizz.

What types of PFAS are used?

The most common PFAS used in cosmetics are:

• PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene)
• Perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane
• Perfluorononyl Dimethicone
• Perfluorodecalin
• Perfluorohexane

All of these names are long and difficult to remember. In that case, it may be a good idea to know that if the ingredient name includes "Pearl Fluoro" or "Trifluoro", it may be PFAS.

How much PFAS is in cosmetics?

A 2020 survey by the UK's CTPA put the figure at just 1.5%. And since 2020, concerns about the safety of PFAS have grown, so it's expected that use is now even lower.

However, this figure is based on reports from CTPA member companies in the UK, and therefore does not apply to Japan.

How is it actually used in Japan?

At the time of surveys conducted in 2013 and 2016 , the following cosmetics in Japan were found to contain PFAS.

• Sunscreen
• Liquid Foundation
• Powder Foundation
• Makeup base
• lipstick
• Manicure

Fifteen types of PFAS were detected, with the highest concentrations found in foundations and makeup bases.

After this investigation, the harmful effects were confirmed. Restrictions on the use of "PFOS" and "PFOA" have begun. Therefore, these two types are no longer used at present. However, there are still concerns about the safety of other PFAS ingredients that have begun to be used instead.

Are cosmetics containing PFAS safe?

There are many things that are still unknown about the effects of PFAS on the human body. However, it is generally believed that high blood concentrations of PFAS can have the following effects:

Effects on reproductive function

Reproductive effects, such as reduced fertility and increased risk of high blood pressure and pre-eclampsia in pregnant women

Effects and delays on children's development

Effects on fetal development, low birth weight, early puberty, bone changes, behavioral changes, etc.

Increased risk of cancer

Increased risk of some cancers, including prostate, kidney, and testicular cancer

Effects on the immune system

A decreased ability of the body's immune system to fight infections, including a decreased response to vaccines

Effects on hormone balance

Blocking the body's natural hormones

Effect on cholesterol levels

Increased cholesterol levels and risk of obesity

Although the above health risks are a concern, the amount of PFAS contained in cosmetics is so small that it is generally believed that there is no risk of these effects from using cosmetics.

In addition, most countries have standards for the safety of cosmetics, and it is often said that there is no problem with using them because "ingredients that do not meet the relevant safety laws and standards are not used."

On the other hand, it has also been suggested that PFAS may be absorbed through the skin . Regulations on the use of many PFASs other than PFOS and PFOA have not yet been put in place.

Related article: Are PFAS in cosmetics absorbed through the skin?

There is still much we do not know about the effects of PFAS. Some people think it is okay because there is only a small amount of it. Others want to avoid it if there is even a slight risk. Opinions seem to be divided.
What are your thoughts?

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