The scary story of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

UV absorbers may be scarier than sunburn

Sunscreen is used to prevent sunburn and the effects of ultraviolet rays. It's not uncommon for people to use it all year round, not just in the summer. But do you know what the ingredient "ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate," which is often found in sunscreen, is?

Maybe it's even scarier than getting a sunburn...

We will introduce the latest information on UV absorbers based on overseas surveys and other information.

Related article on sunscreen: Why you should choose a sunscreen that is free of UV absorbers

What is Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate?

Also known as octinoxate, it is an ingredient that protects the skin from ultraviolet rays, especially UVB rays, which are closely related to sunburn.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is a UV absorber.

As the name suggests, UV absorbers absorb UV rays on the surface of the skin and convert them into other energy such as heat or infrared rays, reducing the impact of UV rays on the skin.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate began to be used in cosmetics in the 1950s. Since then, its use has rapidly increased in Japan with the arrival of the skin whitening boom. It is still used today as the main ingredient in sunscreens.

However, it is also included in other cosmetics that claim to have UV protection, such as the following:

• Foundation
• Makeup base
• Concealer
• Face Powder
• Lip balm
• Moisturizing cream
• Hairspray
• Hair styling products

Safety of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Currently, in many countries, including Japan, it is considered safe to use within certain concentrations.

However, in reality, there is not enough research to show its safety. As research progresses, some worrying risks are becoming apparent.

Absorbed into the body through the skin

The size of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate used in cosmetics is 5nm (nanometers) in diameter, an ultra-small size that is invisible to the naked eye.

Even though these ingredients have the potential to be absorbed through the skin , they are processed to be smaller than skin cells. Therefore, it may not be possible to say that the risk of percutaneous absorption is low.

It is said that there are ways to prevent percutaneous absorption by combining it with other substances, but there is little research on the actual percutaneous absorption rate.

Hormonal disruption

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate has been identified by the EU and several other studies as an endocrine disruptor , meaning that if absorbed through the skin, it affects the endocrine system , which produces and regulates hormones in the body.

A safety evaluation conducted by the US FDA in 2021 also determined that ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is an endocrine disruptor and, along with 14 other UV protection agents, is one of the "UV absorbers with insufficient evidence of safety and effectiveness."

Allergic dermatitis

As mentioned above, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate absorbs ultraviolet rays on the surface of the skin and converts them into heat.

However, this effect can be harsh on people with sensitive skin and may even cause allergic reactions.

Symptoms of an allergic reaction include redness, swelling, blisters, and rash. Symptoms may not appear immediately after application, but may appear several days later .

There is also the possibility of photocontact dermatitis, which occurs when allergies are combined with the effects of ultraviolet rays.

Environmental impact

It is widely known that sunscreen can cause coral bleaching, which occurs when coral turns white and dies, and this has a negative impact on the marine ecosystem.

It is said that the cause of coral bleaching is the ultraviolet absorbing agents contained in sunscreens, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is one of the causative agents.

In order to protect coral and marine environments, laws banning the use of ultraviolet absorbers have been enacted in Florida, Hawaii, Palau, and other states.
UV absorbers have been detected not only in coral but also in the bodies of fish in various places around the world, so the impact on the environment appears to be significant.

How to avoid ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate

Cosmetics that are not intended to protect against UV rays, such as perfumes and skin care products, do not need UV absorbers.
First, check to see if such cosmetics contain ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

Next, when it comes to cosmetics that you want UV protection for, such as sunscreen or base makeup, try to choose products that are "non-chemical" and "free of UV absorbers."

Non-chemical cosmetics should contain mineral-based UV protection agents such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide instead of UV absorbers such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

For more tips on choosing a safe sunscreen, be sure to check out the article below.
2024 Latest Edition: How to Choose the Right Sunscreen for You

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