7 Benefits and Risks of Using AHAs in Your Skin Care

What are AHAs?

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid. It is a group of acids derived from plants and animals that are used in skin care products. They are also called "fruit acids" because many of them are derived from plants.

The seven AHAs commonly used in skin care products are:

• Citric acid (from citrus fruits)
• Glycolic Acid (from sugarcane)
• Hydroxycaproic acid (from royal jelly)
• Hydroxycaprylic Acid (Animal Source)
• Lactic acid (from carbohydrates such as lactose)
• Malic Acid (from fruit)
• Tartaric acid (from grapes)

There are various research reports on the benefits and risks of incorporating AHAs into skin care.

In this article, we'll summarise the benefits of incorporating AHAs into your skincare routine and what you should know before using them.

Skin care benefits of AHA

AHA is an ingredient that is often used for the purpose of exfoliation, but it is also expected to have the following other effects:

• Brightens and tones the skin
• Promotes collagen production
• Works on nasolabial folds and wrinkles
• Prevents changes in skin color due to scars and blemishes
• Prevents acne
• Increases the penetration and absorption of ingredients

1. AHA with a strong peeling effect

The most anticipated effect of AHA is its peeling effect, which means it removes dead skin cells. Removing dead skin cells also promotes the production of new skin cells.

As we age, our natural skin cell cycle slows down. This makes it easier for dead skin cells to accumulate. Too much dead skin cells can make your complexion look dull. Accumulation of dead skin cells can also cause wrinkles, age spots, and acne.
Therefore, by effectively incorporating AHAs, it is expected that anti-aging and acne treatments will be possible.

Not all AHAs have the same peeling effect. The type of AHA and the concentration used will affect how effective it is.

2. Brighter skin

When AHAs remove dead skin cells, the new skin underneath is revealed, which is why dull skin appears brighter.

Among AHAs, glycolic acid has been shown to break down built-up skin cells, while citric acid may help brighten skin.

3. AHAs promote collagen production

Collagen is a fiber found in the skin that is rich in protein and keeps the skin plump and smooth.

However, as we age, collagen fibers become more fragile. Not only aging, but also damage from the sun accelerates the loss of collagen. As a result, sagging skin becomes more noticeable and loses firmness.

This means that collagen is essential for firm, bouncy skin, and AHAs also support collagen production.

Collagen is found in the middle layer of skin (dermis). AHA removes the old upper layer (epidermis) and acts on the dermis. It breaks down old collagen fibers and creates new collagen fibers, promoting collagen production.

4. Anti-aging care that targets wrinkles

AHAs are also said to have anti-aging effects.
In a study of 52 people looking at wrinkle depth and skin texture, 9 out of 10 people who used AHAs for three weeks reported seeing a significant improvement in their overall skin texture.

However, AHA only works on surface wrinkles, and is said to have little effect on deep wrinkles.

5. Reduces skin discoloration

As we age, the risk of skin discoloration increases, including age spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory pigmentation. Another characteristic of aging skin is that it becomes more difficult for discolored skin to return to its original state.

In such cases, you can count on AHAs to promote cell turnover. Long-term use of AHAs can promote skin turnover and minimize skin discoloration. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, glycolic acid is recommended for skin discoloration.

6. Preventing Acne with AHA

AHA is an ingredient that is also used to treat and prevent acne. Peeling with AHA can be effective for acne caused by old dead skin cells, sebum, and bacteria clogging pores.

Glycolic acid and lactic acid, which have an exfoliating effect and promote skin turnover, are also expected to have the effect of reducing the appearance of open pores and acne scars. There are also acne skin care products that contain other AHAs, such as citric acid and malic acid, to calm inflammation caused by acne.

These AHAs can be used not only on the face, but also on other areas prone to acne, such as the back and chest.

7. Enhances the penetration and absorption of other ingredients

When dead skin cells build up on your skin, the moisturizing ingredients you apply to your face stay on the surface of your skin, preventing the new skin cells underneath from getting hydrated.

By breaking down the old stratum corneum on the surface of the skin with AHAs such as glycolic acid, moisturizing ingredients can more easily reach the new stratum corneum.

Too high an AHA concentration can cause severe dry skin

AHA peeling can have a variety of beneficial effects, but to achieve these effects, the AHA must be mixed in at a certain concentration.

However, there are concerns that if the concentration is too high, it can have a negative effect on the barrier function of the stratum corneum, which can lead to extreme loss of moisture in the skin and cause severe dry skin .

Therefore, the EU recommends the following concentrations for safe use of AHA:

Glycolic acid

It is safe to use at a maximum of 4% with a pH value of 3.8 or higher.

Lactic acid

It is safe to use at a maximum concentration of 2.5% if the pH value is 5.0 or higher.

Products containing AHAs are likely to cause skin irritation, so be careful not to use more than the recommended amount or frequency in the hope of seeing positive results.

Other risks of using AHA products

When using an AHA product for the first time, you may experience the following skin symptoms:

• Hot flashes and redness
• itch
• Peeling of the skin
• Blisters
• Dermatitis (eczema)

If you notice any of these symptoms, stop using the product or use it every other day until you feel no irritation. You may be able to use it without any problems after a while of use. However, it is important to use it with caution and keep an eye on your skin to prevent unexpected skin problems.

Becomes more susceptible to UV damage

When using skin care products containing AHA, you need to be especially careful of UV rays, because if skin that has been thinned by peeling is exposed to UV rays, it will become very sensitive to the sun and may develop inflammation similar to a burn.

Therefore, after using cosmetics containing AHA, be sure to take measures against UV rays such as applying sunscreen every day. Also, if the sunscreen comes off due to sweat, don't forget to reapply it frequently.

Also, if you fall into any of the following categories, be sure to consult with a dermatologist or doctor to see if there are any problems with using AHAs:

• People who have had hair removal, dyed hair, or shaved hair
• People with cuts or burns on the skin
• People with skin inflammation or atopic dermatitis
• People with rosacea or psoriasis
• People with skin problems such as eczema
• Pregnant or breastfeeding women